The Real Istanbul with Burak

There is something deeply ironic about being outblogged by Carrie on this trip thus far. I think I’ve created a monster. But, if it wasn’t for her, there wouldn’t be much to read.

When I last left off I had posted some pictures from our fabulous hotel in Sultanhamet, Istanbul. It was kind of like having a view of the French Riviera, the Eiffel Tower and the Vatican rolled into one. While it was nice to experience these wonders of Turkey, it was pretty awesome when my buddy Burak and his cousin Emrah whisked us away to where the fun is: Taksim.

Taksim has a huge street that is closed to traffic and is rife with shops, bistros, bars and street vendors. You see these streets in most major cities in Europe and they’re awesome. Just a mass of people moving enjoying some shopping, food and nargile (hookah) at a human pace.

After some walking, we settled down to eat some authentic Turkish cuisine at a really nice restaurant next to the Galata Tower. Burak and Emrah ordered a bunch of mezes to share, and we enjoyed every bite. Wrapping things in grape leaves was a great idea.

Now things get fun. Burak suggests we go check out the One Love Festival, a weekend music fest featuring electronica. We pile into Emrah’s Mini and he takes off like a bat out of hell. A few near-death experiences later and he’s paying some guy to move a trash bin so that we can park on the street next to the festival. A few Lira later and we’re just in time to catch the headliners: Royskop! It was a cool show: not too crowded, close to the stage, and just long enough to satiate my curiosity in electronic music.

Afterwards, we headed over to Emrah’s for some drinks. Carrie and I had whiskey, a delicious 12-year variety. It was nice to get away from the bars and just chill-out. Emrah’s flat was right in Taksim and was great. 3 bedrooms, high ceilings and a long balcony for something like $1200/month. Good deal!

Anyway, here’s to Burak and Emrah. Turkish hospitality at its finest!

Street meat

I think eating from food carts is one of the best and cheapest ways to really get to the gut of a city’s cuisine.

On the west side of the Bosphorus, near the Galata Bridge, there are three docked wooden boats serving fish sandwiches. It sounds pretty mundane until I add in the fact that the boats are pitching back and forth with the river’s swells. Somehow these guys are able to keep their balance, not vomit, manage a grill full of fish, and crank out sandwiches that locals and tourists alike gobble up while sitting at little tables.

The sandwiches are served on a roll, with lettuce, herbs and sweet onions. The fish is definitely on the fishier side, which explains the bottles of lemon juice and sea salt on each table. And you’ve gotta watch out for those fish bones. I can’t say that my mouth is watering for another one, but for just 4 lira, it was a really cool experience.

Afterward Carter grabbed an ear of grilled corn from one of the many corn vendors around town. We each just took a couple bites of the charred and dry corn, and then spent a good few minutes picking it out of our teeth. Not so tasty, but for just 1 lira it was worth a try. And once we started into an ice cream cone from yet another vendor, the corn was all but forgotten.

Good Morning Sultanahmet

Some shots from the roof of our hotel. Top to bottom: the Bosphorus, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

Merhaba from Istanbul

This is the view from our hotel, the Hotel Alaturka, which is very close to the blue and red mosque.